Category Archives: By Country – Romania

After a month in Romania

Back in the mid-eighties, I read a magazine article about the plight of Romanians under Ceaușescu. I remember being shocked by the state control over the most personal aspects of people’s lives. In reality families couldn’t afford or find available … Continue reading

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Towards the plain

When we arrived in Cluj, evening was about to settle in – so we headed straight for the campsite. There’s two – one that we’d been told was the best site in the country, but a good distance out of … Continue reading

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Up the path to the wooden churches

We had feasted our eyes on the painted monastery churches of Bucovina, and now it was the path to the wooden churches of Maramureş that we followed. The time spent in Sighet and at Viseu de Sus provided a welcome … Continue reading

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The Țuică-Ciuc choo-choo

Having spent a day and a half sat in the carpark of the Vișeu sawmill, we’d got familiar with the rhythms of life there. In the early morning, the carpark spent an hour or two filling with tourists ready to … Continue reading

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The Sighet garden

After we left Fundu Moldovei, we had to face the best kind of dilemma – which gloriously beautiful mountain pass route to take into the Maramureș region? Do we head over the Prislop Pass, which takes us through tiny villages … Continue reading

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On the painted monastery trail

The lure of seeing Romania’s treasured painted monasteries took us to Southern Bucovina in the northwest of Moldavia (not to be confused with Moldova, which is a separate country to the east). These lands were long subject to the threat … Continue reading

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Into Moldavia

Leaving Sighișoara, we were heading eastwards towards Moldavia. First off though we went north to Târgu Mureș, just a slight detour, and spent a few hours there. This was once one of the biggest Magyar cities of Transylvania, though nowadays … Continue reading

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Transylvania part 4 – Fortified against invaders

After a night spent camped in the garden of the very nice B&B run by Rudi and Ella (yep, more Dutch), chatting with Richard – an East German-born biker, whose childhood holidays had been spent in then-Communist Yugoslavia and Romania … Continue reading

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Transylvania part 3 – Glass icons and hairpin bends

The first real place west of Brașov is Făgăraș, but our attempt to avoid it altogether didn’t quite work. One minor fuel-level-related marital later, we found the petrol station which had eluded us for the entire stretch of the DN1 … Continue reading

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Colourboration – Green with envy

Green with envy is what I’d be if I read about someone doing the trip we’re doing. I pinch myself sometimes to make sure it isn’t all a dream. This time Lynne at Dovegreyreader and I have chosen to explore … Continue reading

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